Climbing Earrings

Climb Mount Kinabalu, Borneo

Location

 The Kinabalu Park is famous the world over for the highest mountain in South-East Asia – Mt. Kinabalu, a vast, jagged granite massif rising to 4,101m. (13,455 ft). The mountain is the focal point of the whole Park, which covers an area of 754 sq km (291 sq miles) of Borneo Island in Sabeh, Malaysia and includes vegetation types ranging from the lush lowland zone through the tropical oak, rhododendron and conifer forests, to the alpine meadow plants and stunted bushes of the summit zone. The Park probably has one of the richest diversities of flora in the world.

Trek Kinabalu

Mount Kinabalu is the highest mountain in south-east Asia and offers a unique climb from tropical luxuriance through sub-alpine forests to the rocky summit plateau. The climb starts from Mount Kinabalu Park Headquarters, only a couple of hours drive but already more than 1500m above Kota Kinabalu on the coast. There is ample accommodation here, from dormitories to comfortable two-person cottages. Whilst the round-trip trek to the summit can be accomplished in two days, a more comfortable 3-day trek is recommended for biology-lovers who want to fully enjoy the rich diversity of flora on the mountain. There are 2 trails up Mt. Kinabalu. The recently-opened Mesilau Trail offers more opportunities for viewing flora and fauna, whilst the Summit Trail is the more direct route.

The use of an authorised guide is compulsory, whilst a porter is an optional luxury. Many of the trees and flowers are unique or extremely rare but to the uninitiated novice in matters botanical, there is no doubt that the pitcher plant steals the show. Even the most casual observer cannot fail to notice these impressive insect-guzzling monsters, with up to a pint of liquid in their death-by-drowning chambers, waiting to lure and then drown the passing fly or mosquito.

The summit trail winds up a steep staircase of gnarled tree-roots to a mossy world of drifting clouds and orchid-draped trees, where pitcher plants and rhododendrons abound. Just above the tree line at 3350m is a comfortable rest house where most parties spend the night. Before dawn next morning everybody is up and climbing by torchlight towards the summit. A steep rock step is aided by a fixed rope which continues all the way to the summit even where the way becomes quite flat when it winds across bare granite slabs in an eerie moonscape of rock twisted and contorted in weird wind-fashioned ways.

 The early start is a good idea in order to enjoy the views before the usual mist descends on the summit, which normally happens at around 10 am. It is not a good idea to climb too quickly as the wait for the magnificent sunrise at the summit is rather cold. The arrival of daylight reveals the remarkable summit plateau of the mountain, a vast expanse of smooth rock with a weird assortment of rocky pinnacles rising from it, almost like the udders of an inverted cow. In clear weather, you can almost see all of Sabah spread out below in a magnificent soul-expanding panorama of jungle and forest, river and rock. Luckily for peak-baggers the highest pinnacle, Lows Peak, is also one of the easiest. On the way down you can take a glimpse down the dizzying depths of 1,000 meter-deep, 16 kilometer-long Lows Gully, which splits the summit plateau into the western and eastern plateaus. With the early start the descent to Park Headquarters is easily done in one day and is normally accomplished with the satisfied glow of having climbed one of the world’s most spectacular and interesting mountains.

Rafflesia – World’s Biggest Flower Rafflesia is perhaps one of the two groups of plants that are associated with Kinabalu more than any other, besides orchids. The spectacular Rafflesia, which grows wild in these forests is, perhaps surprisingly considering its size, a parasite – it has no stem or leaves of its own and gets its nourishment from thread-like filaments which spread down through the roots and stems of its host forest vines.

The buds appear as small knobs covered in dark brown bracts on the stem of the vine and take about nine months to develop to the size of a cabbage before they open. The flowers are notorious for their bad smell, which is most unpleasant but only lasts for three to four days. Two species have been found on Kinabalu, the huge Rafflesia keithii, which really is a giant, growing up to a whopping 94 centimetres (37 inches) across and the smaller R. pricei, about 30 centimetres (12 inches across).

Other peaks on the mountain are Victoria’s Peak (4,090m.), Donkey’s Ears Peak (4,054m.), South Peak (3,931.5m.) and St. John’s Peak (4,090.7m.) on the western plateau. On the eastern plateau, stand King Edward Peak (4,086m.), Mesilau Peak (3,801.3m.) and King George Peak (4,062.6m). These peaks are only for experienced climbers as they are challenging climbs requiring ropes, for which a special permit from the Park authorities is required.

Whilst in Thailand, why not visit one of the country’s currently best three beach destinations:

Koh Lao Liang: http://www.andamanadventures.com/kohlaoliang.shtml

Ao Nang: http://www.andamanadventures.com/ao_nang.shtml

Railay/Tonsai: http://www.andamanadventures.com/railay-tonsai.shtml

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About the Author

Runs Andaman Sky Co., Ltd, specialising in climbing and diving trips to Thailand’s best beach destinations.

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